Turtles greeted us on the boat ride to Namua Island. Their dark forms were a stark contrast to the brilliant aqua marine water. When our dinghy cruised over them, they darted away at speeds unbelievable for such big creatures.
It’s rare to find a place with more life per square foot than Namua Island. And the sea turtles were only the beginning.
Namura is just a small speck of an island a short distance from Samoa’s main island of Upulo. At low tide, you can practically walk the channel between the two. And if Samoa is “mellow” Namua is “just woke up from a Valium induced nap mellow.”
We were spending two nights on the private island whose land is 95% jagged jungle peaks and 5% beach oasis – a smudge of sand on what is otherwise an island full of lush verdant green foliage, coral formations, breaking surf and volcanic rock.
Our little cove consisted of about a dozen fales, or open air platforms covered in thatch, each only feet from the lapping ocean waves. The fact that there are no walls on your room is of little concern to guests like us, since Samoa’s equatorial location means it has warm temperatures year round. In fact, walls would only impede experiencing some of the great joys of Namua: being close to nature and all those animals.
You see, it’s hard to look anywhere and not see some critter moving about. Directly below, you’re sure to see ghost crabs scuttling around and a dozen hermit crabs lumbering across the sand with their colorful shells in tow. Hike up to the center of the island, and dozens of jet-black lizards will show you the way. The trees and sky are filled with noisy chirps of bee-eaters, fruit bats and frigate birds.
Beneath the bathtub-warm waters, things get ridiculous. The word “aquarium” gets overused when describing the tropics, but I’m telling you, the myriad and diversity of fish abounding in the crystal-clear waters was just that. Picture yourself in the tank of a large aquarium and you can imagine what it’s like to swim in Samoa.
This was particularly true at low tide when we found ourselves floating in tide pools. In an area smaller than a school bus, we encountered thousands of fish from brightly colored blue neons, to clown fish, to tiny box fish plus dozens more we’d never seen before. Shrimp and fish live together in a single hole – one collecting bits of seaweed and the other digging sand out of their shared home. Swim back across the channel and you stand a good chance of spotting a turtle as it nibbles on sea grass.
All of it just minutes away from your sleeping platform.
Namura isn’t one of those places you read about in in-flight magazines. There isn’t a golf course or spa, and the accommodations are a bit rustic. There isn’t even electricity. But it oozes an authentic South Pacific island experience. If you’re looking for a “get down with nature and live close to the sea” experience, there might be no better place on earth.
Getting There:
Namua Island is on the eastern side of Upulo and can be reach in about 2 hours from Apia. Park at the home with the sign for Namua, and they’ll call the island for your motorboat pickup.
Two night for two people, including boat transfer, parking, breakfast, dinner and sleeping fale US $170
